New AC units will be more efficient ... and more costly

Minimum efficiency standards for air conditioners have increased. An air conditioner is more efficient the higher its SEER rating. The previous minimum seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) rating for air conditioning units was SEER 10. Required by the Department of Energy. starting Jan. 23, 2006, manufacturers must produce units with a  SEER of at least 13. It is estimated that the cost of the newer units has risen between $600 and $1,000.

The new standard does not prevent a consumer from repairing an existing unit with a SEER lower than 13, nor are homeowners required to replace or upgrade existing air conditioners that have a SEER rating lower than 13. However, replacement parts for lower-efficiency units may become scarce, and a larger, more-efficient new air conditioner may necessitate structural modifications such as a larger pad or additional support.

Residential service contracts (home warranties) may not cover some of the additional costs necessary for a property owner to replace an older air conditioner with a new 13 SEER unit. Review the specific terms of your residential service contract to determine the extent of your coverage.

Initially there were objections to the new standards, mostly from northern states where air conditioning is not a necessity most of the year. There was skepticism that the value of energy savings over the life of the new unit would be enough to justify the additional cost.  With crude oil trading above the $100/bbl range this skepticism is likely unfounded. Clearly the higher efficiency standard  will be of benefit to Texas residents in the long run.

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Front door as good as new

The first thing a visitor to your home is likely to notice is your front door. Its condition says a lot about you and your home. There is no doubt that in our neck of the woods, the front door is subjected to severe conditions; strong sunlight, torrential rains and extreme temperatures. The good news is that refinishing your front door is easier than it may seem. 

For a solid wood door with a stain finish there are four steps to follow:             

• Remove the old protective finish   The best way to remove the old finish is to use a chemical stripper. If you use the the paste type the door can stay on the hinges. Protect your eyes, use rubber gloves and a throw away brush.
• Remove scratches and other imperfections   Use 150 grit aluminum oxide paper to start, gently sanding by hand. Finish with a 220 grit sandpaper which will leave a smooth surface.
   
• Re-stain as necessary   Matching color is the key step here. Ask your paint store professional for help. Start light. You can always go darker with additional applications of stain.  Apply with a rag, let dry for a few moments and wipe with a clean cloth. Blend to un-sanded areas as necessary.
   
• Re-finish and enjoy   Polyurethane provides a great clear finish. Plan on two coats. Sand the surface with that 220 grit sandpaper between coats, remembering to remove the dust with a tack cloth before applying the second coat.

For a painted door follow the same general scheme, making sure the surface is clean and ready to receive paint.

Enjoy your new front entryway!

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Stop mildew growth

If you have a wooden deck in your yard, chances are its at least partially in a shady spot. Consequently, your deck is susceptible to mildew growth, even if its been properly sealed.

A 50/50 mix of ordinary bleach and water is the least expensive way to approach clean up of the mildew. Scrub the deck with this mixture then rinse good with a garden hose.  If you have access to a power washer, use it with a deck washing solutions sold at the hardware store. These products are specially formulated to kill mildew.

Most likely your deck will need to be resealed. Not a high price to pay for a years' worth of quiet shade.

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Squeaky floors?

Do you have squeaky floors? It's not an uncommon problem in a two story home more than 15 years old. Some parents actually prefer a squeak or two as a way to monitor their teenager's comings and goings. But if you crave silence, there is a relatively easy fix.

The squeak is caused by nails that hold the sub-floor in place actually coming loose under that carpet. Thousands of steps, over years of use will cause loose nails.

The secrete weapon is the common 8d (called an 8 penny) finishing nail. The trick it to locate the floor joists, the main support boards for the floor.

Once you locate the joists you will drive 8d finishing nails all the way through the carpet and padding at about six inch intervals in the area of the squeak. Make sure the nail head is level with the sub-floor when you are finished.  The 8d finishing nail is thin enough to penetrate the carpet without damaging it and big enough to fasten the sub-floor to the joist. 

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Over-watering

Over-watering your landscape creates a shallow root system that causes plants and grasses to need excessive water during drought conditions. Not only is over-watering bad for your landscape, it also has been identified as the single biggest cause of mosquito breeding sites.

Native plants and grasses require only one-inch of water per week during hot and dry conditions. The water should be applied no more than two times per week, one-half inch each time. If it rains, do not water until the landscape shows signs of needing moisture.

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